All the Way Around: Baby’s Bagels
Food
Just to get it out of the way: Bagels get people passionate. I’ve heard debates sparked about these chunky hula hoops of leavened dough anywhere they’re consumed: whether the water matters, the only true correct toppings and, of course, “toasted or untoasted?” I’m avoiding all that shmear and focusing on whether I enjoyed the entire bagel experience, and on that front, Baby’s Bagels scores a hole-in-one.
When Canella’s Restaurant and Lounge closed in 2020, a lot of Salt Lakers wondered what would happen to the restaurant-scene mainstay’s classic building. After a worrisome period of emptiness, the space was filled in 2023 by not one but a trio of small local businesses while the iconic brick corner storefront remains the same. Baby’s Bagels cohabitates with both FOUNTAIN Records and Nica Joe Espresso. Baby’s itself features a funky-but-homey vibe with brick floors and minimalist art. White tile, sea-green trim and laminated wood booths make it feel almost like a diner, but you order from the friendly staff at a counter before taking a seat to wait for them to call your name. The music is often modern and chill, blending into the slice-of-life feel of the space, with people coming and going comfortably.
The menu at Baby’s is straightforward enough that I can list its tasteful brevity in its entirety for you now. They make the classics: plain, sesame seed, poppy seed, salt and everything ($15/½ dozen, $26/baker’s dozen). In addition to the iconic cream cheese, available in plain, scallion or a rotating special ($7/pint for plain and $8/pint for scallion), you can get a bagel with butter and honey ($4) or a choice of three more elaborate bagel sandwiches, the Muhammara ($11), the Egg & Cheese ($11) and the Lox ($14). Along with drip coffee and other assorted non-alcoholic beverages from a reach-in cooler, that’s it, but the menu’s simplicity is its strength.
The bagels stand on their own, chewy with a nice texture to the crust, but the best part is how they’re completely covered with your favorite topping, not just dusted on top. On my favorite, the poppy seeds alone are so dense, the pale dough is barely visible beneath the inky little orbs. The sesame and everything mixtures are nearly as widespread and carry with them toasty notes and bursts of salt, fennel seed and garlic. While Baby’s recommends them as is, I’m a fiend for toasted bagels with a fluffy interior and crispy exterior. The sesame bagel toasted, warm and heaped with the gloriously chunky scallion cream cheese ($5) is breakfast euphoria for me. The special cream cheese when I visited was Honey & Walnut, which was wonderfully sweet spread on an untoasted salt bagel ($5), with large chunks of walnut and salt helping to cut the honey’s sweetness.
Of the sandwiches, the Muhammara is a standout, thickly slathered with a house-made version of the red-pepper and walnut spread which is balanced and nutty with just a bit of heat. On top of that is an extremely generous pile of fresh green herbs and touches of olive oil and pomegranate molasses. The bright freshness of the dill, mint and parsley keep the sandwich light, while the drizzles add to the luxurious mouthfeel. The Egg & Cheese is also fantastic, especially with the added house-made sausage patty ($3 extra). The sausage is classic, with hints of garlic and black pepper, while the egg is simple and the cheese is extra melty from being cooked all together on their griddle. I don’t always love breakfast sandwiches, but this was an exercise in balance and the result was very satisfying.
Baby’s may have gotten their start in commissary kitchens and farmers markets, but their new brick and mortar location is worth the stop-in for bagel aficionados, whether you get yours toasted or plain and no matter what your topping preference is. Keep up with Baby’s on Instagram at @babys.bagels or order bulk bagels for your next breakfast event from their online store at babysbagels.com. You won’t be disappointed.
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