(L-R) Table X co-owner Nick Tramp, head of fermentation Neil Hopkins and bakery manager Elyse Smith knead dough together.
(L-R) Table X co-owner Nick Tramp, head of fermentation Neil Hopkins and bakery manager Elyse Smith knead dough together. Photo: Justin Lagman
Image:

Table x Bread: Building the Bakery

By
September 6, 2023

Food Reviews

1457 East 3350 South Millcreek, UT
Tues–Sat 8:00 a.m.–3:00 p.m.
385.528.3712 | tablexrestaurant.com 

Table X first opened its doors just seven years ago. Chefs and co-founders Mike Blocher and Nick Fahs needed a home to exhibit the culinary rapport they had earned through years of working at traditional fine dining restaurants. In the short amount of time it has been open, Table X—located in Millcreek—has become one of Utah’s most renowned and refined restaurants. They serve familiar yet innovative American cuisine made with fresh ingredients from local farms and their own in-house garden. The two collaborators have always baked their own bread and in more recent years, have expanded their baking operation altogether to include an entirely new business: Table X Bread.

The idea for Table X Bread stemmed from the need for a wholesale supplier of fresh-made bread for other local restaurants. In 2020, Blocher and Fahs made the most of the pandemic and shutdowns, taking the time to expand their restaurant and build a bakery on the lower floor of their building. Before opening their bakery, Table X mainly served their house sourdough made from Blocher’s own original recipe. Fahs eventually took over the bakery and began experimenting with different recipes and techniques for baking new kinds of bread. Today, Table X Bread offers nearly a dozen different types of loaves and has sold bread to businesses around SLC including Caputo’s Market & Deli, Manoli’s and Pago.

Head of fermentation Neil Hopkins shapes bread dough.
Head of fermentation Neil Hopkins shapes the dough. Photo: Justin Lagman

The warmth of the bread pervades my senses and caters to a perfect blend of crisp crust and fluffy crumb.

The specialty bread offered depends on the day you walk into Table X Bread. On Saturday, an oatmeal-treacle sourdough is available. Wednesday, they have a Pullman loaf and an Einkorn Pain de Mie. Thursday it’s focaccia, and on Friday—the day I visited the bakery—they have their ciabatta bread. The crumb of the ciabatta is soft and moist, and its crust is just crisp enough to make it the ideal foundation for an Italian sandwich. I make sure to try the bread with the bakery’s house-made butter. Its moistness works with the smooth, creamy texture of the butter for a winning combination. I also enjoy that the ciabatta lasts for days after I buy it. It keeps its moist texture and crisp crust unlike many other ciabattas that can falter after a day or two.

Aside from their specialty breads, the bakery offers a selection of loaves made fresh each day including their original house sourdough and a French baguette. For me, the true test for a sourdough is how well it works with an egg. Table X Bread’s sourdough passes with flying colors. Its sour, tangy taste sits well with the salt and butter from my fried egg while soaking up the yolk with a firm yet soft density. The level of chewiness is also ideal, allowing for a satisfying bite without turning into a workout. It isn’t as aerated or crisp as I usually expect from a more traditional San Francisco sourdough, but its punchy taste and fluffier crumb give it a world of its own.

Three loaves of sourdough on a bread rack at Table X.
Loaves of sourdough bread line a shelf at Table X. Photo: Justin Lagman

They serve familiar yet innovative American cuisine made with fresh ingredients from local farms and their own in-house garden.

During the visit I was lucky enough to catch the French baguettes as soon as they hit the shelves. Before I can even take a bite of the bread, I am arrested by its fresh-out-the-oven aroma, offering hints of milk and butter. When I finally do dive in, the warmth of the bread pervades my senses and caters to a perfect blend of crisp crust and fluffy crumb. The baguette has a nutty, savory taste with sweet and sour tones. It also works well with the bakery’s in-house butter as it melts deep into the cell walls of the bread, adding a sweeter blend to the flavor. The French baguette is probably my favorite of the three loaves I am able to try. However, if I had caught the ciabatta or sourdough fresh out of the oven, there’s a good chance my opinion might have differed.

Make sure to stop by Table X Bread as the bakery continues to build and expand. Their bread is made fresh daily and is available until they sell out or close. You can also keep up with the bakery by following them on Instagram @table.x.bread.

Read more about local bakeries:
Eats Bakery: DIY Festival Craft Food
Eva’s Bakery: French Authenticity in the Heart of Salt Lake